There are no refunds once your group class or privates start - To be sure that positive training is right for you, please feel free to come and observe a class.  

Positive reinforcement in dog training can go by many names, most of which are valid: reward-based training, science-based training, force-free or pain-free training, etc. Regardless of the terminology, the general theory behind this line of thinking remains the same. Positive-reinforcement teaching techniques use humane methods to work a dog’s brain, rewarding positive behavior, establishing patterns and training skills that are incompatible with negative behavior thus lessening a dog’s frustration and fears – all while enabling the dog to feel good inside. If you reinforce a dog’s desirable behaviors, there is less of a chance that she will indulge in other behaviors that you do not like. Decision-making is influenced without the use of force, and the dog’s trust in the owner is not compromised through threatening treatment. Behavior is reward driven. Dogs do what works for them. If standing on the back of your couch, licking the wall, while digging into the fabric got your dog attention, (reinforcement) they would do it again. Positive training can be used to overcome many fears or aggression and to help your dog reach his full potential. I stress building a positive reinforcement history with your dog, proper management skills (if your dog gets into the garbage, get one with a locking lid!) and various techniques to get the kinds of behaviors you want without resorting to compulsion, coercion or punishment

Clicker training is one facet of positive training that uses a marker signal (also called a secondary reinforcer or bridge) to tell the dog that he did something right.

Training using a secondary reinforcer was invented more than 70 years ago by B.F. Skinner (1904-1990). Keller Breland and Marian Breland Baily (a student of Skinner’s) first coined the phrase “bridging stimulus,” which later changed to just “bridge.”

Click the things that your dog does that you like, reward it, and ignore what you don’t want. The clicker or verbal marker, communicates precise information from you to your dog, something that is lacking in former traditional types of training. We don’t punish or blame the dog for not doing something that we did not take the time to teach.  

Sometimes. I evaluate dogs on an individual basis. At times, there are advantages for dog owners to request this option. Maybe there is a physical limitation at home and the household dog is a super jumper that could use some better manners. There will be follow up training to do at home as well. Please ask for more details.  

Yes, absolutely family involvement in training is always encouraged.

The best answer is that the more that you practice the better mannered that your dog will become. Dogs learn through repetition, therefore almost any interaction with your dog can become a short training practice session.

We use just regular flat buckle or martingale type collars. We also work with well fitted harnesses that do not constrict or restrict movement. A nice comfortable 6’ leash, a clicker, small tiny size food rewards and the remarkable ability to praise, pet, or play with our dogs as alternatives to food rewards.  

In the beginning, it may seem to take longer. However, once you and your dog catch on, clicker training leads to much faster results. Dogs very quickly learn to perform the desired behaviors in order to make you click! In addition, behaviors learned through operant conditioning and associative learning tend to stay with the dog for the rest of his life.

Right away! Puppies are learning 24/7 and a well-run puppy beginner class is a great place to start. We start puppy classes at 8 weeks and up.

Always consult with your veterinarian first, but there is much data to support that the benefits of early puppy classes outweigh any risks if held in a clean facility and not in an area where other dogs or animals may roam that are not vaccinated.  

Experts believe the prime socialization period for puppies is between 3-13 weeks of age. Considering puppies are typically not placed until 8-10 weeks of age, that period is more than half over. A good breeder will begin acclimating your puppy to many things to start socialization. This is a great conversation to have with your breeder if selecting a new puppy. If adopting a young puppy from a reputable rescue or shelter, often times puppies will have begun the socialization process by interacting with staff or through foster care. Fortunately, there is still a window of time up until about 20 weeks of age. Socialization in puppies means giving your puppy many positive experiences with different textures, sounds, sights, a variety of people, people in uniforms/hats/sunglasses/heights/loud or soft voices/laughing, the sound and sights of children and babies, riding in cars, to human touch, to other animals and much more. In doing so, it’s done at a pace that is comfortable for your puppy, making your puppy will be less inclined to be fearful to new things. In older dogs that do not have many experiences we build their confidence in a similar but sometimes slower manner.  

That is completely up to you. If your dog is struggling with certain behaviors such has housetraining, being possessive over things, causing destruction in your home, there may be some good arguments as to why crate training or having a place solely for your dog to sleep is preferable.  That being said, I am a big proponent of crate training young puppies through adolescent dogs. It is invaluable for your dog to learn that they can self soothe, for house training purposes and in helping them to cope with being alone.   

Simply said, practice. Teach while you interact with your dog on a daily basis. Short fun training sessions are the most effective for learning and retaining new skills.  

Jumping is a natural and self-rewarding behavior for dogs. Plan to teach your dog exactly what you want him to do when he greets people. Train him how to sit, then train him how to sit in front of you, then train him how to sit in front of others. Reward, praise, throw a party every time he chooses to sit when you approach him or he approaches other people. If he jumps you may have to walk him away, turn your back on him or ignore him. Then reward him when he sits. Again and again. Walk him away from guests if he is jumping and keep practicing how great it is to sit when he meets new friends. Ask for help from guests by asking them to withhold attention until he sits.